THE STATELY PLATE

A Series Of Theories On Restaurants And Wine.
‘RUN THE DISH’ REVIEW: A Slice Of Greece at Kiki’s (LES)
Happily making my way downtown for dinner, the first thing I noticed about Kiki's Greek/Mediterranean restaurant was that it was difficult to notice at all - I went into the wrong restaurant next door. The restaurant with lights.
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Happily making my way downtown for dinner, the first thing I noticed about Kiki's Greek/Mediterranean restaurant was that it was difficult to notice at all - I went into the wrong restaurant next door. The restaurant with lights.
It so artfully blends into the cusp of Chinatown with its historic Chinese grocery scribbles on the outside walls of a dark building that I needed my glasses to find the front door. I adore this particular area, it has an authentic downtown, urban feel. When you walk in, you immediately unearth the distinct vibe of the Dimes Square district: cool, dark, fun, and artsy, with the best ambient lighting you could hope for.

Not to be confused with Times Square - Dimes Square encompasses the aptly dubbed 'microneighborhood' in New York's Lower East Side, which borders Chinatown near the Williamsburg bridge. And judging by the crowd in Kiki's, this is a popular spot in the area.

I found my friend at the bar, and we were guided by a lovely hostess, through the first bar, to a second bar and dining area, before being seated in a lively third room with high-top tables. Rustic and candlelit, it was a beautiful, casual table. Through briefly skimming the internet, all assessments of Kiki's food are unanimously positive, so I was excited about our dining and discussion.

We were given two glasses of water, and my first request was a glass of Assyrtiko and the traditional Horiatiki salad, which I had always adored when in Greece. It was oiled to perfection and stunning to look at. Together we shared some Grilled Octopus, Spanikopita, and an entree traditional Lamb Frikasse. The food is plated and cooked authentically, old-school Greek-style. And just deliciously, the lamb fell off the bone in an effortless way. The whisperings were proven correct.

However, there was an anomaly. For quite some time, I realized that I had yet to receive (or so I thought) my glass of Assyrtiko from Santorini. I waited for some time before I asked about it.

My waitress replied, "It's right there," pointing to a shot-sized glass, masquerading as a tumbler, masquerading as a wine glass. My heart sank.

In our absolute sobriety, we had missed this glass, and another exactly like it with ice, for his soda. Amazed that we had missed this and that wine had even come served in that glass, we began retracing our steps at the table, moving the glasses like chess pieces before realizing what glass was what.

When our waitress returned, I asked for a wine glass for my wine. She replied curtly,

"We don't have those," and promptly, she walked away. Those?

I gathered this has come up before. By general restaurant standards, there is no way that this glass is a glass for wine, and it's an ongoing thorn in my side as a wine enthusiast and diner. To have even one or two behind the bar, if a specific customer asks, would be hospitable for those who prefer their wine in a wine glass.

Every restaurant patron is different in what they will and will not enjoy during their dining experience. The restaurant's location and brand individuality are laid-back and fun. I would happily suggest it to tourists wanting cool, casual and cozy with satisfying dishes in the Lower East Side area. However, it may not be the best place to suggest to wine-centric friends if they plan to drink wine with dinner.

Takeaway...

The location, ambiance, traditional food, and service at Kiki's are top-notch. It's an exciting place to be, as does the traditional Greek culture offer you. However, having a semi-extensive wine list by the glass and bottle, I would only suggest it for dinner if you abstain from a wine with your meal and only drink beer, soda, cocktails or water.

Kiki's is a restaurant I would certainly return to for late lunch or brunch instead, for its ample, comforting food. I may even stay through to sundown and have a few Ouzo's at that funky bar and love those glasses. 


lamb
Lamb Frikasse, Slide-off-the-bone